Rear Wheel Replacement' - Rear brake
We also made a youTube video which walks you through the procedure below.
- Two 10 mm open-ended or socket wrenches (adjustable wrenches will work also)
- 4 mm hex key wrench
- Thread locker
- Remove the bolt that locks the rear wheel in place using the two 10mm wrenches. Save the bolt, lock nut, and washers.
Before the rear wheel can be removed, the deck must be removed. To remove the deck, loosen and remove the four screws that hold the deck flat against the frame with the 4 mm hex key.
NOTE: A thread locker was sometimes used to secure these screws. It may be necessary to heat the screws which will soften the thread locker. Something as simple as a hair dryer will work, but it will take some time to get them hot enough. Make sure that you heat the screws from the underside of the deck.
- Once you remove the deck, take notice to the two cleats. The cleat is the aluminum spacers between the ribs. Take one of the deck screws and screw it back into the rear cleat. This is to hold the brake spring in place while the rear wheel is being changed. The brake spring is the folded black plate near the brake pad.
- Loosen the bolt that holds the brake pad in place. DO NOT remove the bolt and do not detention the brake cable. Loosening the brake bolt will allow you to spread the ribs enough to remove the rear axle with the wheel still on it.
- Spread the ribs open and remove the rear axle with the wheel still on it.
- Remove the shim washers from both sides of the axle and set them aside. Slide the axle out of the wheel bearings. You may need to tap the axle lightly with a piece of wood. However, it should not be necessary to pound the axle very hard.
- Slide the axle into the bearings of the new wheel.
- Place a shim washer on each side of the axle (right next to the bearings), over the larger diameter portion of the axle.
- Spread the ribs again and set the rear axle back into its holes. Make sure that the shim washer remains over the large diameter portion of the axle. Make sure the cleats are still set in their holes in the ribs after installing the new wheel and squeezing the ribs back together.
- Reattach the deck to the frame. Use of a thread locker is recommended so that the screws do not loosen through use of the scooter.
- Replace and tighten the brake pad bolt. Do not fully tighten the brake bolt. Tighten it to remove as much side play as possible while allowing the brake pad to freely pivot on its vertical axis. If it is over tightened the brake will not move, if it is under tightened the washers on the bolt will rattle.
- Replace and tighten the rear wheel bolt and give it a spin to make sure the axle and spacers are seated correctly. Over tightening the bolt can cause the wheel to not spin or drag. Tighten the bolt to this point and then back it off about one half turn or until it spins freely.